JMT Day 12: From Marie Lake to MTR — The 47-lb Shock and a Sierra Hot Spring

JMT 2019

Distance: 7 miles (approx. 11 km)

When I woke up at Marie Lake this morning, the sky already looked ominous. I set off at 7:30 a.m., and around 9:30 a.m., as I reached Selden Pass (10,880 ft / 3,316 m) just above the lake, it began to rain and hail. For the first time on this trip, I put on my rain shell. Since I had been blessed with typical Sierra sunny weather every day until now, this “baptism by rain” felt surprisingly fresh.

Before setting off from Marie Lake.
Looking down at Marie Lake as it fades into the distance.

The hail stopped quickly, leaving a thick mist in its wake. The damp Sierra forest was incredibly quiet, mystical, and soothing. I hiked onward, comforted by this deeply calm expression of nature, which was so different from the brilliance of a sunny day.

The silence of the forest around Sallie Keyes Lakes felt truly mystical.
The start of the long descent toward MTR.

I reached MTR (Muir Trail Ranch) shortly after 2:00 p.m. It was a simple yet beautiful resort that felt like a relic from the Old West. I safely picked up my resupply bucket and began the daunting task of packing. From here on, I must carry ten days’ worth of food. Whatever didn’t fit into my bear canister was stuffed into a bear bag and eventually forced into my pack.

My HMG (Hyperlite Mountain Gear) Southwest 4400 was bloated to the absolute brim. Seeing my pack in a state where even closing the top was a struggle, a passing PCT hiker remarked with surprise, “That’s a huge pack!” When I nervously put it on a scale, it weighed a staggering 47 pounds (approx. 21 kg). Compared to the simple, minimal gear of the UL (ultralight) hikers I meet, mine felt like a relic from the era of classic heavy-duty backpacking. Although it will get lighter day by day, my heart sank a little thinking about enduring this weight on the rugged trails ahead.

At MTR, I found the famous “Donation Boxes” (Hiker Boxes), where hikers leave behind food they brought or sent in excess. I noticed some Asian food mixed in, which made me realize just how international the JMT has become. Apparently, some hikers even rely on these donation boxes for their entire resupply. They also offered a paid service to mail back any gear that hikers decided was no longer needed.

Essential supplies were available at MTR. The donation boxes were filled with various items, not just food.
Finished packing 10 days’ worth of supplies.

I decided to stay at the campground near the ranch tonight. After setting up my tent, I headed to the nearby hot springs. What I found were three open-air baths completely integrated with nature. I spent about an hour soaking, allowing my body and mind to relax while gazing at the magnificent Sierra scenery. Though the water temperature was a bit low—making me feel the chill the moment I stepped out—it was more than enough to soothe my fatigue.

I could feel that it’s going to be a cold night. I’ve decided to spend the evening quietly, preparing myself for the journey that resumes tomorrow with my heavy pack.

The open-air hot springs located just beyond the campsite near MTR.

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