Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim backpacking 2020

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What is Grand Canyon R2R2R?

Route Definition: An Extreme Challenge Round-Tripping the Depths of the Earth

The “Rim to Rim to Rim” (commonly known as R2R2R) in Grand Canyon National Park is an intense, demanding round-trip backpacking route. It begins at the South Rim, descends into the deep canyon floor, crosses the Colorado River, climbs all the way up to the North Rim, and then retraces the exact same path in reverse to return to the starting point.

  • Total Distance: Approx. 42.2 miles (67.9 km) to 48.3 miles (77.7 km)
  • Cumulative Elevation Gain: Over 20,000 feet (6,096 meters)

History & Ecological Wonder: A “2-Billion-Year Journey” Beyond Mere Hiking

The true allure of R2R2R lies in the overwhelming scale of history and dynamic natural beauty hidden behind its grueling physical demands.

  • A 2-Billion-Year Geological Time Travel This journey is a vertical movement crossing 11 distinct geological layers that carve out nearly two billion years of Earth’s history. With every step, you can truly feel the unfathomable memory of our planet.
  • Sacred Lands of Indigenous Peoples and Ancient Trails Thousands of years before Euro-American settlers arrived, this area was a deeply sacred site of immense spiritual and historical significance to 11 Native American tribes. The Corridor Trails that hikers use today originated as ancient paths used by indigenous peoples to travel between the rims and the river. Oases like Havasupai Gardens (formerly Indian Garden) are built upon the historical homelands where the Havasupai people farmed for generations.
  • A Dynamically Transforming Ecosystem The landscape shifts dramatically from the serene pine forests of the North Rim to the harsh, punishing desert climate of the canyon floor. Ancient cottonwood trees and a diverse array of desert flora thrive along the trail. If you are lucky, you might encounter wildlife unique to this ecosystem, such as desert bighorn sheep, mule deer, ringtails, or even mountain lions.

Trip Itinerary

4 days, 50 miles, and 16,500 ft elevation gain exploring all 3 rims of the Grand Canyon. (Trekked on December 4–7, 2020)

  • Day 1: Bright Angel Trailhead to Cottonwood Campground (19.6 mi)
  • Day 2: Cottonwood Campground to North Kaibab and back (14.5 mi)
  • Day 3: Bright Angel Campground from Cottonwood (8.4 mi)
  • Day 4: South Kaibab from Bright Angel Camp (7.6 mi)

Day 1: Starting with a Midnight Hike-In—A Long Journey of Approx. 20 Miles

At 5:00 AM on the first day, in pitch-black darkness where I couldn’t see a single step ahead, I began my hike-in relying solely on the light of my headlamp. The destination for the day was Cottonwood Campground, nearly 20 miles away. It was a massive distance for the first day, but the plan was to push through it all at once.

I had previously hiked the route from the North Rim to Bright Angel Campground twice (both as 1-night, 2-day trips). I vividly recalled my second trip in January, where the trail section within about a mile from the South Rim was completely frozen, requiring the use of microspikes. Because of that, and considering this trip was in December, I brought my crampons along. Fortunately, there were almost no frozen patches this time, so they stayed in my pack. However, just as I remembered from past winter trips, the early morning rim in December was brutally, piercingly cold.

Although the distance on the first day was long, it was a continuous descent until reaching the Colorado River, and the section from Bright Angel Campground to Cottonwood Campground was mostly flat. As a result, I didn’t feel as exhausted as I had anticipated.

Compared to backpacking in the High Sierra or the Rockies, the trails in the Grand Canyon are beautifully maintained and easy to walk, and the campgrounds come complete with toilet facilities. It made perfect sense why this is such a world-famous, popular route. Crossing the Colorado River and walking along the canyon toward Cottonwood offered breathtakingly beautiful and truly rewarding scenery.

Day 2: Traveling Light—A Day Hike Round-Trip to the North Rim

On the second day, using Cottonwood Campground as my base camp, I set off on a day hike heading toward the North Rim.

The total round-trip distance was about 15 miles. While it was naturally an uphill climb toward the North Rim, going with just a daypack made my steps incredibly light.

People often picture the Grand Canyon as a bleak, barren desert, but there were abundant water sources scattered all along the route. I faced absolutely no trouble refilling water throughout this journey.

Eventually, I reached the top of the North Rim, but the views up there weren’t particularly spectacular. It convinced me that my plan—doing a day hike up and returning to Cottonwood rather than staying overnight at the North Rim—was definitely the right call.

Day 3–4: Passing Through Memorable Campgrounds to a Relaxed Return

On the third day, I could have chosen to push through another 20 miles and climb straight back up to the South Rim in one go. However, rather than exhausting all my energy on a relentless uphill finish, I wanted to savor the journey. So, I planned to spend another night at Bright Angel Campground. In the end, this decision turned out to be completely right.

Camping at Bright Angel Campground marked my third time here, following trips in 2005 and 2010. As I set up my tent, a flood of old memories came rushing back, filling me with a wonderful sense of nostalgia.

Thanks to structuring a well-paced 3-night, 4-day itinerary, I didn’t experience the “pushing past your absolute limits” kind of exhaustion I had expected before the trip. It became a journey where I could enjoy the immense grandeur of the Grand Canyon with both physical and mental ease from start to finish.

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